Jesse and Lisa (+animals) explore the Broughtons

Jesse Grigg and Isa, Jesse’s beautiful Sheppard mix, have joined the ship! After fixing the new antenna to the top of the mast (oh, what a great view!) we’re off for a weeklong cruise of the Broughtons. Starting of east down the Brroughton straight, we spotted a pod of transient orcas off in the distance in Cormorant channel (plus many cormorants too, of course!). Jesse’s been quite the guide pointing out the murrelets from the pigeon guillemots, and his eagle eyes spotting all creatures of the sea! Sailed downwind through a passage that Charlotte had marked, and spotted the First Nations rock painting of a large face painted in red on the north end of Berry Island. Further down the channel we made it to Mamalilacula, and explored the old First Nations village there. Navigating through thick salmon berries amidst an amazing abundance of hummingbirds (and an alarming abundance of bear scat) we trekked through the old site, coming across a turn of the century schoolhouse, as well as long house and totem pole ruins. Stopping for honey sandwiches, we ate on the porch of an abandoned house, looking over the white clamshell covered beach and the scenic bays. While we were confident that Peanut was doing a fine job standing her watch at the anchorage across the bay, we made our way back to the water, and rowed to the boat for some reading and tea.

The next day, after weighing anchor and eating bagels up on deck, we set off north with light westerly winds. With calm weather and lots of sunshine, we lazed up Retreat Passage to Echo Bay. Although the going was slow (woooh! 2 knots!), our leisurely pace allowed us to spot a pod of Harbour porpoises and sea lions playing about. Jesse got in a good nap too after drifting off to sleep soaking in the many sounds of the Broughton Islands. Rocking up to Echo Bay, Mary, one of the groundskeepers preparing for the summer season, spotted Nakusiak and remembered those “three pretty young girls” that had come through the year before! She showed us around the docks, and we made our way up to see Bill Proctor’s “pile of junk,” as he calls it. This marvelous collection marking the history of fishing, forestry, and life on the coast dating back to early stone tools was a marvel to be toured through by the man himself. After a walk through his museum Bill went down to the docks to have fresh caught fish with the local fishermen, and we trekked back through the woods to the boat to get across the bay for a visit with the folks at the Salmon Coast Research Station. Taking us in for burritos with homemade flour tortillas, we geeked out talking about boats, conservation and the local Broughton wildlife.

After saying goodbyes at Echo Bay, the crew set off for Viner Inlet—a short sail away, but the distance was much appreciated by all due to the non-stop rain. At the mouth of the river we tied up to a mooring can, and we marveled at how far away everything seemed. Peanut was cozily tucked in the v-berth, but the rest of us rowed ashore for a hike. Crunching some fat mussels under our feet as we carried the dinghy ashore, Jesse showed off his “awesome” mussel harvesting skills, and later cooked them into the finest chowder ever known. We were all pleased to have a warm hearty meal on such a chill-to-the-bone kind of day, and Peanut was thrilled to get a taste of the local seafood.

The next day we set off to round Gilford, and saw some amazing sites! Lacy Falls was stunning, and nearing our destination of Minstrel Island, a pod of 15-20 Pacific white-sided dolphins came to play with the boat! As they jumped and dove, keeping pace at our 5 knots, we were thrilled. They also brought with them some sunshine! Just as they parted, so did the clouds. A good omen for adventures to be had on Minstrel Island… Pulling into the public wharf, we were the only ones there. While the dock was once part of the now abandoned resort, the weathered tie up was the perfect spot. We explored the old resort finding a table and chairs for our fine dining supper, and hiked up the island’s logging roads to get a good view of the surrounding islands. While both Peanut and Isa got into the whipped cream for dessert before we did, dinner on the docks while under the stars was fantastic!