We're safely arrived and exploring the area near the Hakai Beach Institute, a newly refitted research institue and generally a fabulous place to chill out. There is a beautiful beach looking out on the Pacific - all white sand and glorious kelp-y boulders. We burned off steam with some running and leaping for joy...
To catch up, for those who are interested....Here's a synopsis of the last few days, with some backfiller from prior adventures of Lisa and her Dad Mike, after Jesse left for southern climes.....
For those who aren't....We'll try to upload more photos but the 'Net is NOT fast here.
Prior to Char and Seb's arrival, Lisa had a great week with Peanut and her Dad, from May 13 to 21.
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Standing on the Sointula jetty, I waved goodbye to Jesse and Isa—sad to see them go after a beautiful week in the heart of the Broughtons. After a earlier taste of the bakery’s cinnamon buns, I needed to get more, and sat outside in the sun with a coffee and cinnamon bun, watching the ferry disappear from Sointula. In relishing my sweet treats, I got talking to Charlie Ray, a retired lighthouse keeper from a number of stations from northern Vancouver Island to Haida Gwaii. He showed me some of his sculptures on display in town, and then he drove me down to see his studio. I asked to buy one of his prints of a majestic loon, he gave it to me for free (plus a couple other pieces!) as he “gets flustered around young pretty girls” and starts giving things away. Saw Marty from Echo Bay walking down the road outside Charlie’s house, and then later on he came down to the boat, and we went for fish and chips at the Burger Shack with Luke and Clio. After talking a quick evening nap, I met the Echo Bay folks at the Rub Pub for beers, and we enjoyed the sculptures, and writing a poem for Charlotte to be delivered down to the conference in Victoria.
May 14
Borrowed a bike from the marina, and rode around town, getting advice for the nearby waters and heading north. Got some Hecate Strait crossing tips from Stuart, who has kayaked the crossing for years, and then went for coffee at Charlie’s house. We poured over charts and old photos of the 25’ double-ender Corazon that he built and sailed up and down the coast. After getting some great advice, he also said I was welcome to come back later and take a bath if I wanted! I raced back to the boat to get my shower things, and was ecstatic to get clean with fresh water.
Mike and Lisa (May 15 – May 21)
May 15
Finished my arbutus art project, and got a tour of the museum from Sars. He asked if I had seen the entire island, and lent me his van to go explore, as long as I could drop him off at home first! Went from end to end of Malcom Island, and upon returning to Sars’ house, he took me in for a beer, and told old stories about running aground around North Broughton Island (marked those spots on the chart!). Said goodbye to Charlie, and then set off solo to Port Mcneill to pick up my Dad!
May 16
Gas fueled, water tank filled, and cast off. Once clear of the ferry, we set sails with light north westerlies. In Cormorant Channel we saw a pod of 20-25 Orcas crossing a few boat lengths ahead of our bow. Cool! The wind shifted to south easterlies just before the Canoe Islands, and we sailed on to Waddington Bay where we anchored for the night, and had a delicious barbeque feast under clear skies.
May 17
Lazily drifted down Cramer Passage to Echo Bay, and smoothly sailed into the docks. Talked to Mary, and then walked over to Billy Proctor’s house where he was splitting cedar shakes with Jenny from the Salmon Coast Research Station to build a new cabin. After lunch, we attempted to sail off the dock, although needed to set the engine as the wind was blowing us back on the docks. Clearing the docks, we cut the engine, and sailed to the Burdwoods where we found a splendid anchorage right next to the white-shell beach. After setting a stern line ashore, we rowed over to the beach, and walked around the island looking at the culturally modified cedars with bark strip scars, and found some good clam digging spots for our chowder dinner. (Big ones too!) Yummm…
May 18
With light winds, we power sailed to Sir Edmund Bay, and ate lunch observing the logging and Salmon feedlot in the bay. After getting warm, and finishing our glasses of wine, we made good time with the current through Sutlej Channel and tied up next to the float houses at Sullivan Bay. After walking around the floats looking at the bright float houses, we were invited in for wine with Suzie and Ken from Oregon, and had a great evening cozied up in their float house. Upon leaving, they generously gave us some of their fresh catch—a hearty helping of crab and a cod fillet. Thanks!
May 19
Left Sullivan Bay at 0930. Sailed a bit in the Bay, but we were only drifting, so set the motor to round Atkinson Island. Around 1130 the wind picked up, and sailed from Wells Passage to Malcom Island over the sunny afternoon, taking turns at the helm as basking the in sun. Sailing all the way into the breakwater in Sointula. Docked at 1730, and cooked a spicy stir-fry with steamed crab legs.
May 20
After biking around town and picking up fresh goodies from the bakery, we checked out the co-op, museum, and went down to the boat to get everything looking in ship shape. With the boat looking spick and span, we sailed from Sointula to Mcneill to meet up with the new crew! After car troubles in Victoria (stick to boats, kids!), Charlotte, Sebastian and Miriam skipped down to the boat, and we cozily drank beers, and caught up on adventures.
AND.....the triumphant trio resumed their journeys north!
Charlotte, Sebastian, and Lisa (May 21 – Present)
May 21
At 0630 we said goodbye to Mike, and after an Eggs Benny breakfast at the diner, and stocking up on all the essentials (beer, wine, and fresh produce), although winds were light, we picked up some good wind crossing Blackfish Channel. Reached across Retreat Passage, and got a spinnaker run in too! Set a crab trap in Shoal Bay with Peanut begrudgingly watching us use her cat food. Coming into the Salmon Coast Research Station we whipped together a quick dinner, and ate up with the Salmon Coast folks at the main house.
May 22
No crabs (only a female in the trap), and set off for the Burdwoods to search for Lisa’s missing Pelican case (and camera!). Left on the beach after clam digging the previous week, there was no luck finding it, but there is still hope! The Salmon Coast researchers monitor the area, and promised to keep an eye out for the bright yellow case. Although there was no case, we weren’t at a complete loss, as we gathered a bucket of clams. Motored through Indian Channel and then tacked up the straight to see the sea lion colony on Duff Island. Over the deep groans and growls of the basking sea lions, we ate a delish lunch made by Char. Lisa rowed the dinghy to get a closer look at the sea lions (about 100!) and Sebastian caught us our first fish! Very manly “hunting” work, although Char and Lisa are going to get him to do the “gathering” as well…With Sebastian at the helm we sailed on to the Polkinghorne Islands, and had good holding in the shell/sand bottom. After a scrumptious dinner, we set a stern anchor to keep ourselves from swinging into the nearby rocks, and went to bed while it was still light out after a long day.
May 23
Happy Birthday Nicky! We sang a song for you, and we’re eating the last cinnamon bun as birthday cake for you. After hauling anchor at 0730, we set off northwest under power. In changing the fuel tanks, we accidentally flooded the engine, but in open water and only slight swell, we had a fairly easy time draining the carburetor, and learned more about the workings of the engine. So sunny, and Day 2 of Char and Lisa (unintentionally) wearing the same outfit. Twins separated at birth? A great day of sailing eventually pushed us as far as Blunden Harbour, although beating into the increasingly strong NW breeze proved to be slow going. Thankfully, Blunden offered us a welcome respite from the elements, and we explored the old First Nations village, clam midden, amazing old growth forest, and excellent crabbing grounds. Happy hour back on board after some beachside stretches felt well-deserved, although we weren't idle as the fishing rods came out and we attempted our best casts into the shallow, sandy bay.
A magnificient supper of crab (which almost came away with Char's finger) concluded the day....
May 24 to 26
Rounding the Cape! We set out from Blunden Harbour without intending to make it around Cape Caution that day, meaning to merely spend the day in Miles Inlet. However, an early start, refreshing wind, and favourable tides pursuaded us to push on. We arrived in the entrance to Rivers Inlet late in the afternoon after a day of attempted spinny runs, long tacks into the open Pacific, bread kneading, and story telling. Yes, we're making bread - in the pressure cooker! The first attempt proved highly successful, as we munched it the next morning in our extremely sheltered bay while gazing out at the (flat calm) seas of Fits Hugh Sound.
A good morning of motoring (past our first dolphins of the trip! A good 100 Pacific white-sided!) got us as far as Hakai, and we're currently curled up in the cabin while Lisa's sundried tomato-dill bread bakes on the stove after a morning of hiking in the boggy, gnarly coastal moors. We're departing with the flood this afternoon in the direction of Bella Bella, as far as the freshening SE wind can send us
'Til next time! And we're off.
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